Bogd Khan Palace in Ulaanbaatar

In less than a decade, a shift towards capitalism has transformed Ulaanbaatar from a Soviet styled city in a tangle of shops, cafes, billboards and traffic jams. Although the Chinese quarter has all but vanished, the city is still with a heady cross-section of society crimson-robed monks rub shoulders with sombre-suited politicians and businesspeople, while teenagers toting mobile phones skip past bewildered nomads fresh off the steppes.

It’s easy to escape to a public square, grassy park or beer patio. The Tuul Gol offers a cool respite to the south while the four holy mountains surrounding the city provides its backdrop.

A walk from the centre of Ulaanbaatar inevitably leads into timeless ger suburbs, where mangy mongrels patrol the unpaved lanes and even most residents still live in traditional gers (circular felt tents). Of great contrast are the narrow lanes off Sukhbaatar Square that are undergoing a renaissance of ultra-progressive fashion shops and cafes.

The city is a pleasant place to visit which has interesting monasteries and museums and excellent cultural shows, so spend time here before heading out to the glorious valleys, steppes or deserts of Mongolia.

Some figures:
Inhabitants: appr. 900 000
Altitude:    1300 - 1400 m above sea level
Highlights:  Gandan monestery, Bogd Khan Palace, several museums such as a     
                 a natural history museum with world famous palaeontological items.